What's the difference between off the rack, custom and bespoke?
-off the rack is mass produced, serves the public. Has a one size fits all feel to it. Not tailored to your body so you may have to do some tailoring to make it fit somewhat right.
-custom made is when a fabric is cut according to your specific body measurements. Can be more expensive than off the rack. Minor adjustment made after clothing has been made. Uniquely yours. Turnaround time 4-6 weeks. Sales associate usually takes measurements and send it to tailor
-just like custom made, bespoke are fabrics cut to your body measurements but your suit is made from scratch with a whole new pattern. Takes multiple fittings to get it right. More measurements than custom such as shoulder slope, back arch. Get personal attention from the tailor building your suit.
Why custom is the best option for athletic guys?
As a purchaser of off the rack clothes, they have their restrictions. It isn't made for you. Even after tailoring it still may not fit right. Face it, your muscles may just not fit in that suit sleeve, what I saw alot as a wardrobe consultant at men's wearhouse was really built guys struggling to get their biceps to fit in those shirts/suits. And of course can't forget the problem with quads and fitting into pants right. With custom, it's a whole lot easier. Hands down the most comfortable clothing in my closet. Pants fit perfectly, can even squat in them if I wanted.
The custom process
I got a custom made double breasted vest and pants by Joseph Abboud. Joe Abboud has alot of products at Men's Wearhouse so the fitting was fairly simple. Now I just got the vest and pants but if you were getting a suit, they fit you in the three cuts they have modern fit, slim fit and extreme slim fit to give them and you an idea as to how the custom would fit. They take usual measurements such as chest, sleeve length, with the aid of a JA off the rack coat on you. I had on a JA vest and they took the measurements of that. The pants is where I have problems because of my quads so they took my unique waist, hips, out seam, inseam measurements. That custom pants came unhemmed giving you the option for cuffs or no cuffs. Turnaround time was 5 weeks because I had it made during the holiday season which gets busy for them but usualy it takes four weeks. For JA in particular, the garments are made in my neck of the woods in Massachusetts in a city called New Bedford.
Features Of My Custom
Custom Made Label
Super 100s Italian Wool
Unhemmed pants (eventually got a plain bottom hem)
Super 100s Italian Wool
My Final $0.02
I know a lot of fit men who avoid shopping for clothes because of the fit but now there is a solution. Men's Wearhouse has two custom programs: one program is one two piece (extra for vest) for $800 and the other program, which is more affordable, is 2 two piece for $700 or one for $400. Considering their off the rack suits start at $650, why not get something made for you to your body specifics for $400. That's a deal and half! They also do custom dress shirts starting at $125. $400 may be alot for some but if you intend on wearing it more than once the cost per wear is reduced e.g buy it for $400, wear it once = cost per wear is $400 so that makes it expensive or buy it for $400, wear it 4 times to 4 events that can happen in year (funeral, wedding, job interview, company holiday party, etc) = cost per wear is $100,not so bad. And that is in a span of a year, a suit should be an investment you keep for a couple years. A more in depth video on cost per wear is coming shortly.