Admittedly, I didn't know much about shirt collars and the how they fit in the cohesiveness of your outfit, more importantly how it balances the structure of your face. Sure, I knew the importance of the collar spread and the right tie knot to go with it but little thought was given to the relationship the collar has with the face. One thing I love about being a blogger is you don't need to know everything and it's ok to learn things along the way while rectifying past mistakes. It also forces me to be a smart shopper because of all the research I have to do to create this content for you guys. It took trial and error to realize the first thing to consider when buying a dress shirt is it collar. Alan Flusser's book Style & The Man does great job in articulating the relationship with a man's face shape and collar. To paraphrase, the collar's height, length and spread should always complement a man's face. A cutaway collar may not be flattering to some no matter how much in style they are. Same with a spread, narrow point, etc. Let's take a look at a couple fit men's faces and the types of collars that work for them, starting with me.
Anatomy Of A Collar
Before we get to the examples, first let's break down what makes a collar so we can be smarter shoppers. The collar mainly has three parts: Point, Height and Spread. The point is the obvious part, the pointed tip. The height is the distance between the top of the collar band and the point. Ideally you'd want this to be 2.5 inches plus and the back of the collar, the distance from the top to the bottom about 1.5 inches. The reason being when you tie a tie, you want the collar to completely cover the tie without any bulking or tie showing from underneath the collar, Something I've fallen victim to. The fabric of the tie will determine it's thickness so it is best to go with a larger collar to cover all ties. Lastly the spread of the collar, that is the distance between the two points. Here is where you get your narrow spread, button down, wide spread, semi spread and so forth, and these in turn frame your face.
I have a oval shaped face. I'm one of the lucky few that any collar spread can go with my face. I have every type of collar (except the club collar) in my wardrobe though I tend to gravitate towards the spread and narrow point alot.
The pro wrestler has a very distinct jawline which gives him a large square face. For fit fellas with a square face, a 2.5inch + collar with a classic spread works best.
Cristiano is your typical ectomorph. Standing at 6'2, he is just a tall fit guy and his face is in proportion to his body. He has an oblong shape and he will also need a larger collar (a smaller one will make his face look longer than it actually is) with a wide spread.
The actor who plays Drax in the Guardians of The Galaxy and The Avengers seems to have and endomorph body and a round shaped face. A narrow point collar works best for round face guys, a wide spread would just make the face look more round.
Some men's faces aren't easily defined, this will have to take some trial and error. Just remember that the the collar should be like a frame around a picture. The wrong frame will make the picture look bigger or smaller than it actually is and since all eyes are drawn to the picture (your face) it needs to be in perfect harmony with the frame (the collar). Whatever collar spread you choose however, choose the right tie knot to be hosted in that spread. The tie knot can also have an effect on the perception of your face. When in doubt, do the four in hand or double four in hand, these are the most versatile of tie knots and can go with any collar spread, even a cutaway.